Article - A yatri's Char Dham-Yatra Diary

Author: - Captain (Retd) H. BALAKRISHNAN Indian Navy

The "Char Dham Yatra" in the State of Uttarakhand, is considered as a `MUST VISIT TEERTHA Yatra' for Hindus to attain Moksha. In our ' Itihasa', it is believed that Adi Shankaracharya coined the very term "Char Dham". The literal meaning of the term is the " Four Abodes of Gods or Holy Destinations".

The antiquity of the State of Uttarakhand is full of legends as this is considered "Dev Bhoomi". The land of Gods and Godesses, celestial beings and sages. Uttarakhand finds mention in ancient Hindu scriptures as Kedarkhand, Manaskhand and Himavant.

It is to this " Dev Bhoomi", that the Mumbai based pilgrimage tours specialist Divyadesh Tours & Travels (P) Ltd. had organized the "Char Dham Yatra" commencing and terminating at New Delhi from 03 June - 15 June 2016. We were 18 Yatris.

The diary of events as they unfolded during the Yatra, interspersed with anecdotal references as picked up during the Yatra, are summarised in the succeeding paragraphs. I hasten to add this is not a travelogue. At the same time this diary of events is to gave the reader a perspective on all that the Yatris encountered during this fascinating Yatra.

THE YATRA AS IT UNFOLDED

The Yatris got together at New Delhi from Mumbai, Bangalore and Chennai. The Hotel Metro Heights provided comfortable double bed A/c rooms with attached bath with running hot and cold water. It is located in Karol Bagh.

The Yatris - strangers at that point in time - assembled in the basement dining hall for lunch. This was preceded by each Yatri introducing himself/ herself specifying their profession , areas of interest, hobbies etc., This were basically a ' breaking the ice' event.

At 3.00 PM, we started a long drive in our A/c bus (25 seater) to the Aksharadham temple in NODIA. This bus - UP 19T 9501 - was to be our most trusted companion till 15 June 2016 !!.

. An hour's drive brought us to the sprawling Aksharadham Complex belonging to the Swaminarayan sect of Sanatana Dharma.

Undaunted by the stifling summer heat of Delhi, we walked around this complex. At 7.00 PM in the adjacent amphitheatre. We were all treated to a spectacular "Sound and light with Dancing Fountain" show. Simply put,it was a breathtaking symphony with an imaginative commentary of the subject taken from our rich Ithisa Puranas. Words prove inadequate to describe the show that held one and all spellbound.

An auspicious start for the Yatra. 18 tired Yatris returned to Hotel Metro Heights for dinner and a welcome sleep for the night.

04 June 2016 : New Delhi to Haridwar via Rishikesh (Distance - 259 Kms)

Refreshed from the night's sleep and after tucking in a wholesome breakfast, the Yatris boarded - UP 19T 9501 - in good spirits at 7.45 AM.

The real Yatra to Dev Bhoomi was about to begin.

The National Highway to Haridwar runs through the towns of Ghaziabad, Meerut and Roorkee. As we had to traverse through these towns - no by pass- our average speed made good suffered despite a good road.

After passing Meerut, we came to our lunch halt at a food court called "BIKANO'S" - belonging to the well known chain " BIKANERWALA". The thali vegetarian food was good without any frills. Throughout the Yatra the foodwas to consists of

(a) Chapatis / Rotis ;
(b) a Paneer dish ;
(c) dal ;
(d) a vegetable or Rajma ;
(e) long grained rice (we were in Basmati land") ;
(f) curd ;
(g) Lijat Papad.

Hot and tasty,the food was more than enough to sustain the energy levels of the Yatris.

Post lunch we headed for Rishikesh passing Haridwar. The 2013 floods in the Char Dham caught the Uttarakhand administration napping with no record of Yatris who lost their lives.

Thus, a new State Government order mandates all Yatris to undergo a bio -metric identification . The Yatri gives his / her Aadhar or any Govt. identification card to the person undertaking the bio - metric identification . In about 2 minutes, the Yatri receives his / her identity card permitting the Yatri to the Char Dham.

The bus also required FC clearance from the RTO, Rishikesh, to travel to the Garhwal mountains.

With all clearances in hand, all credit to the Tour Manager Shri Prakash for his forethought, we headed back to Haridwar (25 Kms). The time on arriving at Haridwar was 6:30 PM and thus we went straight to `HAR KI PAURI" area to witness the `Ganga Arthi'.

It was Ekadesi and the area was teeming with Pilgrims. We then witnessed the `Ganga Arthi'. For those who have witnessed the spectacular `Ganga Arthi' at Dasaswamedha and Asi Ghats at Varanasi,the Haridwar Arti can only be termed as a "poor cousin". Still an Arthi is an Arthi with its own Bhakthi

content. 21. It had been a full day when we returned to check -in at our Hotel Brinjal for the night halt. The rooms were spacious and more than adequate for tired limbs. After a hot dinner consisting of the staple diet mentioned at Para 15 above, it was time to hit the proverbial 'sack'.

05 June 2016: Haridwar to Barkot (1200M above MSL) via Dehra Dun,Mussourie, Kempty Falls

An appointment had to be kept at Haridwar before ascending the hills. It was a Holy Bath in the Ganga. Thus at 5:00 AM all 18 Yatris headed in our bus to the "Har Ki Pauri" bathing ghats. The place was already teeming with pilgrims despite the early hour. While the ambient temperature at Haridwar was high, even at 5.00 AM, 'Ma Ganga' was FREEZING. It called for courage and will power to take the plunge. Plunge we did indeed !L Bhakti is a strong catalyst.

. By 6.45 AM we were back in our Hotel Brinjal.Quick change of clothes, breakfast and the Yatris were literally on the road' at 7.45 AM headed for Barkot (1220 M above MSL) the base camp for the 1st Dham - Yamunotri.

Being a Sunday and vacation time, there was heavy traffic up the Mussourie Hills, causing traffic snarls. The last 15 Kms to Mussourie can best be described as " Snail's pace". The hills just cannot hold such a density of motor vehicles. As the famous British historian Sir Arnold Toynbee wrote - 'What Price Progress'. One wonders.

We encountered another traffic snarl on the other side of Mussourie at Kempty Falls. The net result of these snarls was that we lost nearly 2 hours of travel time.

. Tired after a long journey, we arrived at our home for the next two days - Camp Nirvana - at Barkot. It was 'tented accommodation" on the banks of the River Yamuna, with the rugged peaks of the Garhwal Shivaliks surrounding us. It was 'exotic, idyllic and sylvan' at its best. Evoked memories of the British poet William Wordsworth'S famous sonnet - "The Daffodils" - especially the last stanza : -

"For oft when on my couch I lie
In vacant and pensive mood They flash upon the inward eye
The bliss of solitude".

The swishing sound of the Yamuna dashing against the rocks in its path made for a soothing lullaby. CAMP NIRVANA was "NIRVANA" in all senses of the term'.

The tents have a comfortable double bed , a side table, LED light bulbs. The toilet has all the accessories needed. Instead of doors, the tents haveflaps at the entrance and for the toilet. They can be zip closed.

A hot dinner, made tastier by the simplicity and ever smiling faces of the Garhwali folks, it was time to stretch one's legs for some rest in anticipation of the rigours of the morrow!.

06 June 2016: Barkot to Janki Chatti to Barkot - 60 Kms+60 Kms=120 Kms.

Janki Chatti ( Chatti = Junction, Meeting place) is the base from where the Yatri embarks on a 7 Km ascent to reach Yamunotri.

We were fortunate to have an experienced Char Dham hand as our Yatra Manager. Thus he suggested an early start for the day to beat the mid-day crowd. Thus ' Reville' was sounded at 4.00 AM with bed tea being served by the camp staff. Hot water is supplied in buckets.

With packed breakfast we were up and away at 5.00 AM for Janki Chatti to ascend to Yamunotri (3293M above MSL). Reached Janki Chatti at 7.00 AM afteran awe inspiring drive, for we caught the first glimpse of the snow capped peaks of the Himalayas as the sun came out. Dawn breaks out in the hills at 4.45 AM and sun rise is around 5 : 15 AM. 33. From Janki Chatti to Yamunotri there is a paved path and at certain points, steps. The pilgrim can reach Yamunotri by (a) walking - which will take anything upwards of 3 to 4 hours ; (b) Mule - takes about 90 minutes ; (c) Dholi - which takes about 2 to 2.5 hours.

Loremipsum - By 7: 30 AM we were up on the ascent either by mule or dholi. The ascent on the mule was quite comfortable. It is led by a Garhwali male. There is onestop half way for a cuppa as also watering for the mule and giving it jaggery to maintaining energy levels.

By 9 : 00 AM all of us on the mules reached Yamunotri. There was no rush of pilgrims at that time. There is a covered hall for use by the pilgrims. We occupied the entire hall. The first item was to take a Holy Dip in the HOT Sulphur Spring. There are 2 bathing enclosures, separate for males and women.

Imagine getting down to undergarments and bare chest (for males) and taking the dip at 10000 feet !! . The spring was really hot but most welcome !!. Back to the hall for a change to dry clothes. Once done, and everyone change, it was pooja time.

Divya Desh has got its own set of pandits at the Char Dhams. Thus our pandit took us to a small canopied pooja area, where one saw smoke coming out of the ground with bubbles and a thin stream of water. Belief has it that this is the source of the River Yamuna.

In reality the River Yamuna originates a further 8 Kms up from Yamunotri in the Himalayas. It originates from a place called "Saptharishi Kund". But belief is belief and so it shall be, to sustain we humans.

There is in our lthihasa that Yamuna was the sister of Yamaraj and therefore on `Bhai Dhooj', Yamaraj promised Yamuna that whosoever takes a dip in the River Yamuna, will not be taken to Yamalok and he / she will attain Mokasha.

After the pooja to Yamuna, the Yatris went around the adjacent temple of Kali. By 10:30 AM, we had finished all the activities at Yamunotri. It was time to start descending to Janki Chati. 7 intrepid Yatris decided to walk down. It was a tough walk down and took 2:15 hours. The strain on the knee was tremendous.

After lunch at 'Arvind Annexe' at Janki Chatti, It was time to retrace our way back to CAMP NIRVANA. Arrived back at base at 4:00 PM to a welcomecup of hot tea.

A satisfying day at the 1st Dham

07 June 2016 - Barkot (1220 M above MSL) to Uttar Kashi (1158 M above MSL) - 68 Kms.

After a relaxed breakfast, departed for Uttar Kashi (Kashi of the North) at 8: 00 AM.

The roads in Garhwal are narrow and landslides are quite common. The main reason for this lies in the fact that the Shivalik range is made of limestone rock. In rain, water enters through crevices in the rock. The limestone then becomes soggy and ultimately collapses under the weight of the rocks above. In the process it washes off the road. Thus the Border Roads Organization (BRO) maintaining the roads in Garhwal have to battle the elements on a continuing basis to maintain road connectivity.

Reached Uttar Kashi at 11:30 AM and checked into our Hotel Hari Om. Functional , neat and clean devoid of frills - that's Hotel Hari Om. Across the road it has its restaurant. We were treated to the Best food' on the Yatra through the `NaIan' at Hari Om !!.

At 4:00 PM after a hot cuppa, we set off for darshan of Kashi Viswanath of Uttar Kashi. The Shivalingam is bigger than Kashi Viswanath at Varanasi. Extremely satisfying darshan.

In front of Lord Viswanath's Sanidhi is the unique " Mahadev-Ka-Vishal-Trishul". It is made of eight major metals and is HUGE. Itihasa states that Lord Siva killed Vakasur with this Trishul. Thereafter he grounded the Trishul with force. It stands 15 feet tall above the ground. No one knows how deep has the base of the Trishul sunk, todate. Advances in Science notwithstanding. Anecdote has it that a 'good person' on touching the Trishul makes it vibrate. In the event, all 18 of the Yatris made the Trishul vibrate !!.

After darshan at the Viswanath Temple at 5:15 PM we were treated to an hour's magnificent slide show of the Garhwal area in the upper reaches of the Himalayas, as also the Char Dham areas. The entire slide show is the brainchild of Shri Gulab Singh Negi an adventurer from Uttar Kashi. The only requirement for viewing the show is that the Yatri must know Hindi as the commentary is in Hindi. Spellbinding show.

Back to Hari Om for an early `NaIan Dinner" and sleep in preparation for the morrow. 08 June 2016: Uttar Kashi (1158 M above MSL) to Ganqotri (3048M above MSL) - 100 Kms

Reville at 3 : 00 AM and on the road at 4:00 AM. Reached Gangotri at 8:30 AM . The final 20 Kms of the road to Gangotri was in bad shape and slowed us down considerably. Drive through coniferous forests.

As stated earlier, thanks to Divya Desh, the Pandit was waiting for our arrival. After buying the pooja items we were seated on the banks of the Ganga (Bhagirathi) for Ganga pooja. It was quite an elaborate affair.

On completion of Ganga pooja, the Yatris performed " Pithru Tarpanam" on the banks of the Ganga (Bhagirathi). Extremely satisfying spiritually.

Then visited the Ganga Ma Temple for darshan.

By 12:00 PM, post lunch, we were underway for the return to Uttarkashi which we reached by 4.30 PM.

Tired in limbs. Spiritually uplifted. Can be the best description for the state of the 18 Yatris. 2nd Dham under the belt also.

09 June 2016 - Uttar Kashi (1158 M above MSL) to Gupt Kashi (1319 M above MSL) - 271 Kms.

The longest single leg in our Yatra . Reville at 3:00 AM and underway at 4.30AM.

The road to Gupt Kashi goes via the Tehri Dam - the highest dam in the world. If one has to go around the Tehri Dam, one adds another 40 Kms to the distance. During the Char Dham Yatra period, the dam authorities havepermitted vehicular traffic over the Dam. We had goose bumps when going over the dam that produces hydel power from the Bhagirathi.

We came down literally to the plains for lunch at Hotel Chahat, Srinagar (not J& K) (560 M above MSL) , on the banks of the River Alaknanda.

Because of a long drive through winding roads, with nothing else to do, the musical talents of many Yatris came to the fore !!. Hindi film hits of the 1950's to 1970's of Rafi, Mukesh, Kishore, Manna Dey, Hemant Kumar, poured forth with gusto. This was followed by Tamil hits by TMS, PB Srinivas, AM Raja etc., Good way to pass time !!.

Instead of halting at Gupt Kashi, we proceeded a further 15 Kms along the road to Phata from where about 6 airline companies operate helicopter services to Kedar Nath.

The airline booked to helo lift us to Kedar Nath was Pinnacle Air (P) Ltd. Once at the helo port of the airline, we were weighed for the preparation of the passenger manifest for 10 June 2016. However, there was a heavy rush of pilgrims for helicopter lift.

Once finished we drove down to Gupt Kashi, to our resting place - CAMP NIRVANA. Only here it was a mix of tents and cottages, unlike at Barkot.

There was an additional bonus for all 18 of us . When we stepped outside our cottage, the first sight was of Kedar Nath peak !! It was awe inspiring to just see the abode of Lord Shiva.

10 June 2016: Phata to Keder Nath ( 3583 M above MSL)

As directed by the ground staff of Pinnacle Air (P) Ltd., on 09 June 2016 to our Tour Manager, we reported at the helo port at 7:15 AM. It was to be the start of a grinding 6 hour wait for our turn !!.

A short overview of helicopter operations to Kedar Nath. Flying generally starts at 6:00 AM subject to wind and weather. Generally the weather is fine for flying in the morning. The clouds start rolling in only by 2:00 PM or 3:00 PM. Typical mountain weather.

The helicopter seats 6 passengers. The flying time to and from KedarNath is 10 minutes respectively.The helicopter thus flies 3 sorties in one hour and transports 18 passengers to and from Kedar Nath.

The second hour is mandatory rest period for the pilot on account of flight safety requirements.

The process gets repeated thereafter hour after hour.

Thus we started getting airlifted from 1:00 PM. Yatris are given one hour at Kedar Nath for pooja and darshan and be back at the helo port for airliftback to Phata.

However, by 5:00 PM, the clouds started descending on Kedar Nath. Thus only 8 of our group made it to Phata. Subsequent flying operations for the day was called off leaving 10 of our group at Kedar Nath for the night. However, the Uttarakhand Govt. has built adequate facilities for the pilgrims with Razaais' for cover. In the end, for the 10 it was a case of "All is well that ends well", on 11 June 2016 with the added bonus of extra darshans of Lord Shiva.

Kedar Nath is a 8th century temple built by Adi Shankaracharya. The temple is a stark grey structure and enshrines one of the twelve sacred "Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva" The Jyotirlinga in the sanctum resembles the hump of a bull.

Ithihasa has it that after the Mahabharata, the Pandavas repented the killing of their cousins - Kauravas - and came to Kedar Natha to seek forgiveness of Lord Shiva . But Lord Shiva eluded them and took the form of a bull. When the Pandavas sighted the bull, Lord Shiva submerged into the ground, leaving behind the hump which is worshipped at Kedar Nath.

At Kedar Nath also , Divya Desh had a pandit. He was at the heloport to receive us and take us to the temple. The temple is about 1000 Mtrs. from the helo port. Lack of oxygen at that height makes the trek to the temple a difficult affair.

At the temple, pilgrims are allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum and also paste the stone with ghee and chandan. Once outside the pandit performs pooja and gives all a Rudhraksha mala.

Helicopter fliers have to mandatorily purchase a Rs.1,100/- special darshan ticket at helo port. The advantage of this ticket is that it takes one just outside the sanctum sanctorum, in comparison to the long queue for Dharma Darshan and join the main queue.

We were airlifted to Phatta by 5:15 PM after which flying came to a halt for the day on account of bad weather. We 8 reach our cottages by 7.00 PM. It appeared as if Lord Varuna was waiting for us to get inside the confines of our cottages, before literally pouring "cats and dogs" for an hour and half ! Such a whipping downpour never seen by we urbanites! And then as suddenly as its started, it also ended by 8:30 PM.

Thus the curtain came down on an eventful day which included a darshan of Lord Shiva at Kedar Nath.

3 Dhams completed. One to go.

11 June 2016: Gupt Kashi (1319 M above MSL) to Joshi Math (1890 M above MSL). 158 KMS.

On account of 10 members of our group being left behind at Kedar Nath, a 8:30 AM planned departure for Joshi math, was delayed to 10:30AM. Our 10 friends were airlifted back to Phata by the 6:00 AM helicopter sorties.

By now we had become used to the ruggedness of the Shivaliks. But we were in for a pleasant surprise in one stretch of this leg. Suddenly we came across thick green, verdant deciduous forest on either side of the road. The village Chopta in this sector is called "Mini Switzerland" on account of the sheer scenic beauty.There was something ethereal about this sector. A feast for nature lovers.

Arrived Joshimath at 6:30 PM and checked into our Hotel Snow Crest. It is a cozy hotel and gave us a sense of welcoming warmth in the literal and figurative sense of the term.

12 June 2016 : Joshimath (1890M above MSL) to Badrinath (3100 M above MSL) - 46 Kms.

Once again Reville at 3.30 AM for a 5:00 AM start. This ghat road was the most treacherous we encountered on this Yatra. It appeared as though BRO was fighting a loosing battle against nature.

The vehicular traffic on this sector was heavy on account of a Sikh Pilgrim centre - Hemkund Sahib - that branched away from the Badrinath road, 20 KMS short at Gobind Ghat. In fact it was a common sight from JoshiMath to see 4 or 5 Sikh ' Jathas' (groups) on motor cycles wending their way to Hemkund Sahib. It was also a common sight to see Gurudwara Langars along the road.

After a 'bumpy ride' arrived Badrinath at 7:45 AM. On account of the excellent liaison that Divya Desh maintains with the local populace, we were able to get special darshan tickets (Rs.1800/- for 2 persons) through the shop keeper of shop No.6 !!. This when ticket sales had been discontinued on 11 June 2016 on account of heavy rush!!. Incredible India !!

Armed with special darshan tickets, within 10 minutes we were inside the Darshan Mandap'. On a carpeted floor, about 40 pilgrims were made to sit, facing the sanctum sanctorum. Lord Vishnu, the presiding deity at Badrinath, is carved from black stone.

ltihasa has it that Adi Shankaracharya was having his bath, one day, in the River Alaknanda that flows adjacent to the temple. He then felt something underwater rubbing against his ankle. He bent underwater and picked up the object. He saw it was a black stone figure. With his "Jyothir Gyaan", Adi Shankaracharya realised it was an Avatar of Lord Vishnu in human form. Hence he named it "Nar Narayan". A Namboodri priest from Kerala is the chiefpriest at Badrinath - a practice established by Adi Shankaracharya. Had a 'Divya Darshan' of 'Nar Narayan'

As one comes out of the Darshan Mandap, a devotee walks straight onto the Sanadhi of Adi Shankaracharya. A Moorthi of Adi Shankaracharya is placed there.

Next was 'Pithru Tarpanam' on the banks of the River Alakananda. Imagine wearing Panchakacham, sitting bare chest at 10,000 feet !! with a cold river for company !! Our pandit took great pains in explaining all that we were performing. Net result, where Tarpanam takes 15 minutes at home, it took one hour !!.

If the pandit's words were to come true , then we take solace from the fact that all our Pithrus have attained Moksha. Pleasant thought indeed.

Having finished all the spiritual works,early lunch was taken at 11:30AM. The eateries at Badrinath serve excellent 'Ghee Roast Dosa', 'Uthappam', 'Masala Dosa'et al !!.

We then shaped course to the last Indian village in this sector on the, Indo-Tibetan border. It is named " Mana Village" and is just 2.5 Kms from Badrinath. The actual border is 50 Kms away.

A further 2 kms ascent from Mana village brings one to the "supposed origin' of the Rig Vedic River Saraswathi. In 45 of its hymns, the Rig Vedashowers praise on the River Saraswathi ; her name appears 72 times , and 3 hymns are wholly dedicated to her. Saraswathi's waters are lauded as a "great flood", she is 'great among the great', 'the most impetuous of rivers', and was 'created vast'. Saraswathi is indeed the 'mother of waters' or of rivers - 'Sindhumata'.

Near here is also the `Bhim Ka Phool'. When the Pandavas wanted to cross the River Saraswathi, Draupadi found it hard. Then, Bhim, lifts and throws a big rock into the river that helps Draupadi cross the river.

With the Badrinath and near by environs seen, 18 spiritually satisfied Yatris returned to Hotel Snow Crest for a welcome Hot Cuppa at 4.30 PM.

After a quick change made it to the local Narasimha temple (Narasingha in the North).

Thereafter we made our way to one of the four mutts established by Adi Shankaracharya as follows :

(a) Atharvana Veda - Joshimath
(b) Yajur Veda - Sringeri
(c) Rig Veda - Jagannath Puri
(d) Sama Veda - Dwaraka

Adi Shankaracharya was born in Kaladi (Kerala) in 788 AD. He was a prodigy and was called `Eka Sruthi Dara' - one who can retain anything after just one reading.

The point for all of us who consider is - Where is Kaladi and Where is Kedarnath / Badrinath? And yet Adi Shankaracharya covered the distance on foot. Stupendous.

It is believe Adi Shankaracharya attained Moksha at Kedarnath. His Samadhi is behind the temple.

At the Mutt in Joshimath, there is the cave where Adi Shankaracharya is believed to have got his Jyothir Gyaan. In the cave he is seen preachingto his first Disciple - Totakacharya.

Thus the Char Dhams were covered . Some Divine Power looked after the 18 Yatris. For, at least on 2 occasions, we heard, the weather had washed away roads causing traffic disruptions - BUT AFTER WE HAD PASSED!!.

13 June 2016: Joshimath (1890 M above MSL) to Srinagar (560 M above MSL) -147 KMS,

In comparison to the hectic routine of the earlier days , it was a relaxed start for the Yatris. After a leisurely breakfast we were underway at 7:45 AM.

The surprise on this otherwise uneventful journey was when we stopped for lunch at Hotel Krishna Place at Karna Prayag. On entering the hotel, behind the front desk is a framed photograph of Superstar Rajinikanth with the hotel staff ! He is supposed to have lunch at this hotel. Small world indeed !!.

We reached Hotel Chahat in Srinagar at 3:30 PM. One more leg completed. Two more to go.

14 June 2016: Srinagar (560M above MSL) to Haridwar via Rishikesh-138 Kms.

The Yatris were on the road at 8.00 AM bound for Rishikesh. The road condition was good throughout. As one gets closer to the plains, one saw a lot of 'white water rafting' as an adventure sport. Reached Rishikesh at 11.15 AM.

At the entry to Rishikesh we were met by our local guide, Shri Gambhir Singh. We started our trip around Rishikesh on foot, by having a Darshan of ' Makar Ma Ganga'. Next was a temple dedicated to Rama's brother - Lakshman. Next we were at a Shiva temple which houses the tallest Shivalingam in Garhwal - all of 11.25 feet and weighing 12.5 tonnes. Devotees were permitted to ascend the stairs to the first floor and perform 'Jai Abhishek'. And then came the enthralling walk through the famous "Lakshman Jhoola".

The lthihasa about Lakshman Jhoola goes as follows. The Rishi Vasishtar tells Rama that even though his killing of Ravana was good for society, yet he had killed a Brahmin. And he needed to do penance in Rishikesh. On reaching the Ganga, Rama found there was no way across the river. He turned to Lakshman for help . Lakshman shot a quiver of arrows into the Ganga and created a pathway for his brother. Thus 'Lakshman Jhoola'. There is also a Ram Jhoola.

Then we were taken on shopping expedition to the Uttarakhand Handicrafts Emporium, a Govt. undertaking but outsourced to the ISCKON group for daily activities. The products here are authentic. The three main products of Garhwal are - (a) Rudraksha, (b) Navarathana Mala, (c) Spadigam.

An 1SCKON Swamiji gave us a detailed exposition on the foregoing three items.

Rudraksha grows only in Indonesia, Nepal and Garhwal. There are two types of Rudraksha viz., (a) Eka Mukhi Rudraksha, this grows only once in 12 years. It has a single line going across the circumference. It isnever worn as a mala. It is used for pooja (b) Panch Mukhi Rudraksha - The common variety. It has five lines going across the circumference. It can be worn as a mala on placed in pooja room.

The Navaratna Mala as the name suggests has 9 gems from the Himalayas. Can be worn as a mala or kept in the pooja room.

The Spadig, taken from the inner core of the Himalayas, is a combination of rock and ice. This ice never melts. Thus Spadigs are 'Cool to touch'. The Spadig can be worn as a mala. At night it is removed and placed in a copper vessel and filled with normal drinking water. In the morning this water is drunk by the person wearing the spadig mala. Thereafter the spadig mala should be kept in the sun for 10 minutes for the spadig to recover and recoup its energy.

The Swamiji's exposition was a 'MASTERFUL MARKETING EXERCISE' as, all of us purchased all the three items loosening the purse strings. IIMs take note please !!.

15 June 2016: Haridwar to New Delhi - 209 Kms

The Yatris were once again on the road by 8.00 AM for the last leg. The only difference this time was an early 10:30 AM lunch - Chennai Style ! - at BIKANO's. Arrived Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station at 3.15 PM, bringing down the curtain on this most fascinating Yatra. GARHWAL - THE LAND OF PANCH PRAYAG,PANCH KEDAR AND PANCH BADRI Panch Prayag

The five most sacred river confluences of the Garhwal Himalayas are of immense religious importance. The five Prayags are :

(a) Vishnu Prayag : It is 12 Kms from Joshimath on the confluence of the Rivers Alaknanda and Dhauli Ganga.
(b) Nanda Prayag : It is the confluence of the Rivers Alaknanda and Nandakini.
(c) Karna Prayag : It is the confluence of the Rivers Alaknanda and Pindari.
(d) Rudra Prayag : It is the confluence of the Rivers Alaknanda and Mandakini
(e) Dev Prayag : It is the confluence of the Rivers Alaknanda and Bhagirathi. From here onwards it flows as the River Ganga that traverses the Indio - Gangetic Plain and enters the Bay of Bengal at Sagar Island in West Bengal.

Panch Kedar

The Panch Kedar lie between the Rivers Alaknanda and Bhagirathi . The Panch Kedars are located at :

(a) Kedarnath : Hump of the bull
(b) Tungnath : Arms of Shiva
(c) Madmaheshwar : Matted hair of Shiva
(d) Rudranath : Face of Shiva
(e) Kalpeshwar : Head of Shiva

Panch Badri

The Panch Badri are - (a) Badrinath, (b) Yog Dhyan Badri, (c) Bhavishya Badri, (d) Adi Badri (e) Vriddha Badri CHAR DHAM OPENING AND CLOSING

The Char Dham temples close for winter on the day Lakshmi Pooja is performed after Deepavali.

The Char Dham temples open for a Yatris on the day of Akshaya Tretheya.

At Badrinath, before closing the doors for winter , the Namboodhri lights a lamp. Anecdotal reference has it that the lamp continues to burn till AkshayaTretheya when the temple opens. CONCLUSION

It was a fascinating Yatra in all senses. Compliments are due to Divya Desh Tours and Travels (P) Ltd., Mumbai, for organizing a well planned yatra.

Compliments and gratitude are due to Tour Manager, Shri Prakash and Assistant Tour Manager, Shri Shiv Mishra for their excellent execution of plans and for their personalised care of the Yatris. They were a wonderful duo.

All said and done, none of the foregoing would have borne fruition had it not been for the consummate driving skills of our UP19T 9501 TATA Bus driver - Shri Upender and his able assistant Shri Shrawan Kumar. Never once did we have to gnash our teeth or grip the seat in front for a ' Near Miss'. There were no sudden brakings either.

And the icing on the cake were the 18 Yatris. On 03 June 2016, 18 strangers met . On 15 June 2016, 18 dear friends bade Adios to each other. There is now an active What's App' Group operating.

A nostalgia filled Yatra.

For the record 1951 Kilo meters covered in 12 days. Thank you all